The team.

There are now only 9 riders, plus the 2 pillions and 2 passengers, but our support team are still busy looking after us. It can be a bit like hearding cats sometimes.

Our fearless leader Justin is on a bike and leading the ride each day, as well as all the logistics. We met Justin on our South American trip 6 years ago when he was driving the truck on what I think was his first Compass tour. He has since led a few of the Compass long rides like the 105 day ‘Road of Bone’ from London to the furthest east of Russia, and the 3 month Cape Town to Cairo ride.

Ellis is our token Kiwi and is driving the ex-UN Nissan Patrol as backup. He also has our 2 passengers, the sisters of one of the riders coming along for the adventure. Ellis has our food stocks ready for the road-side lunches in the back and also caries our backpack and stuff at times. It is nice to know the UN vehicle is behind if you have any issues, and he can take the pillions when it gets too slippery or wet.

Our second back-up vehicle are the local bike support crew. They have a 4x4 van and carry the spare bike, our bags and all the spares to keep us rolling.

Bazo and Suki (Sorry - I am sure that is not how you spell it!) have been kept very busy with all the breakdowns but have been great at keeping us moving. At each stop they do the rounds and adjust anything needed. They spend the evenings on bigger jobs, and on the rest day I think they re-wired one of the KTMs. The bikes are going to go back better than they started.

Bazo’s wife Undra (It is their 1st anniversary) has also come along for the ride. She has been our cultural advisor and chief translator as well as helping out with all the work.

We are well looked after.

Where are we??

The support vehicle is carrying a SPOT tracker which logs our position regularly via satellite. The log is only kept for a few days so this will only work while we are travelling (i.e. if you are reading this post-trip it won’t work) but gives a live position update so you can see where we are when off-grid.

https://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0fYmTctQy9ZOTpM6MaZAnLR03Q3GGqdIS

The wet rest day.

Today was supposed to be a rest day to explore the massive Khovsgol Lake. It is a rift lake so very deep - and it is supposed to be very blue but unfortunately it has been grey and rainy all day so it is just grey for us.

There was a little too much vodka consumed by some last night (I only had a few) so they have been very quiet today.

The Ger we are staying in have a pot fire-place in the middle so get really hot when the fire roars, but the wood is very poor quality and wet, so the fire goes from roaring to out very quickly. There is a fire-lady who runs around the Ger tending the fires. I think she is quite discussed by our fire-tendering skills - she has had a busy day. She started at 6am sneaking in to our Ger to light the fires for us.

I managed to make the best of a brief break in the rain this morning and had a nice walk out to a peninsula in the lake. It could be very pretty - if it wasn’t so wet.

One of the group, John, put on a Yoga class and after they went for a swim. Yes - a swim. I think the water is 4 degrees.

I think everyone is over the rain so a rest day has been good. The weather forecast is for much better conditions tomorrow, but we do have to get out of here and apparently there is water across the road and 2 river crossings that were easy yesterday but are running much higher today. I don’t want to start the day with boots full of water!

I think from here we go even further off grid - out to White Lake - so I suspect we will go quiet for a few days.

The bikes

The bikes on this tour have been a challenge and pretty disappointing.

There are about 5 BMW F800GS which are Compass owned and have been shipped in from Australia for this season of tours. The rest come from a local bike supplier and they are a pretty clapped out set. 

I am on a KTM 690 which was a ‘free upgrade’ because the bike I had booked was totally clapped. Given the condition of the 690 - the Suzuki must have been shocking. Mine rattles and shakes but gets along pretty well and is great in the dirt.

There were 3 KTM 400 which are great in the dirt but must be hard work on the bitumen. None of the KTM have indicators and a few are missing headlights. One was retired when Eric ran into the back of a car.

Roger is on a Yamaha Tenere and there is a spare Tenere in the truck, which has been used a few times.

The failure rate has been very disappointing, with multiple break downs almost every day, including: Coil failure on a KTM 400, electrical and possibly fuel problems on 2 BMW, 3 (!) thrown front sprockets on the KTMs, and now one KTM is dripping oil. 

The only saviour is the ability of the support guys to solve pretty much anything. There has been some cringing about their methods, but so far they have kept the show rolling and are always there at each stop to help. They carry a great kit of spares:

That road.

At the end of ‘that day’ (Day 3) we battled in the dark and after the big storm along the worst road with trucks and cars everywhere. This is highway 1001 - the new Silk Road to Russia. 

As I had previously posted - it didn’t look nearly as bad the next day when we back-tracked (it had dried out, it was light and there was less traffic.) but I was able to get some drone footage. 

Summit climb

I think I have managed to upload an OK quality video of the summit climb (well, ride actually, and climbed about 20 meters.)

Sorry this is all a bit out of order but the wifi/internet is pretty sketchy. But this video is worth it ...

Day 5

After a night of rain we all knew the tracks were going to slippery, so while sun almost came out for our departure we headed off very cautiously. (Although a few were also slowed by the after-effect of emptying the vodka supply last night!) 

Today’s mission was about 30km on dirt before about 250km on good roads as we headed further west.

Those tracks were slippery. In places you could swing out onto the grass but a few valley crossings were the main challenge. Justin (leader) was one of the first to go down. I have never seen someone pick up a BMW that quick - but we saw him!

Very wisely Fiona and Daylene did this section in the UN (Nissan) truck as there were lots of dropped bikes. Ellis driving the truck with 4 women on board was having a bit too much fun in the mud but always backing us up along the the 4x4 support truck.

After a hot tea at a roadside stall were we met the road, we were off on the bitumen but soon ran into some heavy rain. Never much fun on a bike.

Lunch today was at  Mongolias equivalent to Costco with a food court and great coffee. It was still drizzling when we headed off but a bit of clear sky soon after and we dried out quickly and the roads were the best we have seen so we ate up the miles.

Today was the first day without a bike breaking, but still lots of work for the 2 mechanics when we got to camp.

Tonight we are in another great Ger camp, on the side of a hill looking across a river. The country has changed a bit with more hills and there are trees around now - and some pine forest on some hills.

Our hosts welcomed us with some traditional dress and song after dinner but we were early to bed ready for a big day tomorrow

Day 6 .... rain.

The day started early with an 8am on-the-bikes so we could cover the miles quickly and get to our next Ger camp out by the ‘blue lake’.

We ripped along quickly to lunch in a restaurant in a town, but the lunch was very slow so we lost a bit of time. As we headed out of town... the rain started and soon it was steady and soaking. We were also climbing up so it was getting cold. It should have been a relaxing and pleasant ride but it quickly became miserable.

When we turned off the main road to ride in about 20km on dirt to our camp it was muddy and slippery, but once we got out of town the road was pot-holed but ok so we ripped along to camp.

It should be a beautiful place, looking out across the lake, but right now it is still pouring down and we cant see much at all. The lake is very grey.

If your have ever wondered how they make Ger waterproof (no I hadn’t either until today) - they don't. At least the fire heater works well and there is a slight chance to dry the gear.

Fingers crossed for better weather tomorrow - a free day to explore the lake. 

Day 4 photos

Our first Ger camp

The Monastery

A fantastic drone shot on the summit (I was down at the camp in the background)

I think that will be the hero shot of the trip!

Our afternoon tea stop.

What we came for... Day 4

(we didn’t have internet last night, and tonight’s is very slow, so no video or photos tonight and this is yesterday’s report)

(Sorry Geoff, can you please click the little cross at the top of this window.)

Today was what we all came here for. Stunning.

We started with a backtrack 12km along the shocking road from last night, but it didn’t seem so bad in daylight and without the flood of water from a storm. And less traffic.

We ripped across the country (only one break down this morning...)  on very good roads to a great lunch stop at a lookout before a few more km to our turn off. Then the fun begins.

We wound up through a small pass on good dirt tracks before we came out into the most stunning and huge valley. Photos just don’t capture it. A huge wide flat of green, a snaking river, rolling hills and a blue(ish) sky, all dotted with Ger camps.

We rode along the valley, either on the tracks or just heading ‘off piste’ and cruising across the fields as smooth as a football field.

We passed our camp and headed up to an old  Monastery sitting up on the side of the hill looking down the valley, but not before tackling 2 river crossing - running a bit deep after the rain. A few wet boots but we all made it.

We back-tracked to the camp and found ourselves a Ger. A few of the guys (That includes Fiona) free-rode up to the summit of a hill for an amazing 360 degree view.  After a beer we sat down to dinner - I don’t think anyone noticed the chips and rice were cold - it had been such a stunning afternoon of views and riding there was too much to recant.

I don't think many of us got a good night sleep though - after some rolling distant thunder the rain set in. Normally the sound of rain on the roof when you are snuggled in bed is soothing, but we all realised what it meant for the day ahead. 

Photos from Day 3

Our amazing lunch spot:

Most of the group.

My dead bike.

Not the day we wanted.

My room mate Geoff had a very big fall off his bike and is in hospital. He was up and walking after the crash but is pretty beaten up with broken ribs and a few other questions. We don’t have a lot of information yet but he will be heading home. Bugger.

Our token American Eric also had a crash and it looks like he may have broken his wrist, but is also pretty bruised and sore.

But that is only the start of the story of the day... It would take a novel to tell it all, but in summary:

The day started great with good weather and a long day to return past Ulaanbaatar and head north. I got a flat tyre just as we came into town so we stopped and heard about Geoff. The support vehicles were with him, waiting for an ambulance and  patching up his bike. When they arrived they fixed my tyre but must have damaged the safety switch on the side stand so when everyone headed off - I was stranded. The support team fixed the bike quickly but now were were separated.

We found our way and met up - but now the road we were supposed to take was closed ...

We finally made it to our lunch stop (some missed it and had to back-track and regroup) but lunch was in an amazing spot on the side of the hill looking out across the valley. Stunning.

(Photos to follow ...)

After lunch the road deteriorated terribly. The my bike dropped its front sprocket,  so I swapped to the spare bike. (Which is actually MUCH better than mine - that’s  another story)

All day there were huge thunder storms clouds on the horizon - in the direction we were going. But it look like we might miss them.

There was lots of road works (needed) so in a number of places everyone just goes off the road and drives cross country, randomly, but often muddy until the roadworks finish.

But the storm was catching us. We stopped to regroup and we saw the massive storm chasing us. Lots of lightning and coming our way.

We decided to try and outrun it so we headed off. The storm was on our tail ... I was leading and was pretty dry but I could see the wall of rain behind me... the last riders got wet a few times but we managed to keep ahead of the worst of it, but it finally caught us.

We hid in a service station while the worst passed.

While waiting we heard Eric had crashed, so 7 of us decided to make the last 12 km in to town and find the hotel. It was getting dark...

I cannot describe the road for about half that last section. 80% pot holes, now filled with water. Cars, trucks, semis ... but we made it. Amazing riding from the 2 guys with their wives on the back.

We got to the hotel, soaking wet, at about 10pm .. with no bags of course, but some food and a beer.

Wifi here is average ... I am not sure when I can get some photos up ...

We head west today ... hopefully.

Video fix

Sorry again ... some of the videos in the last post were set to private.

Try again if you had a problem.

The locals love the drone.

We are meeting lots of locals and tourist who love the drone and the bikes and want to take their picture with us. I met these kids ...

A map.

The compass crew made a map of (roughly) where we are going...

Not quite to plan ...

(I have been having a bit of trouble with some of the videos. I hope these will work ok!)

The plan today was to ride out further east on an out-and-return ride going up into some serious off-road. Unfortunately we had a few bike issues this morning and lost over an hour. By the time we got to lunch time it was raining so we went to a restaurant for lunch.

While the weather was improving, we were out of time to go into the park, so we just headed back the way we came.

The ride, however, was still great through some really wide open plains. We had a morning rest stop in one of the passes.

There are still lots of nomadic Mongolians so rubbish collection must be a bit of a problem. It is a shame their national monument looks out onto this.

About 60% of Mongolias GDP comes from mining so it was inevitable we would see some impact from that. These impressive flat top ‘mountains’ turned out to be man made.

I sent the drone up to try and see what was happening.

When we got back to ‘our’ valley the sun was coming out for the first time and the valley looked magnificent, so I sent the drone up again.

So while we didn’t get any dirt today, it was still a great and varied day.

Tomorrow is a long and I think not-very-interesting day back through Ulanbaatar and then north. Both accomodation and internet access go downhill from here, so I hope I can get some uploads happening again soon.

Try again...

Sorry, i am having a few teething troubles with the drone video. Try this:

Posh hotel.

We have 2 nights in this very posh hotel, way out in the middle of nowhere. Compass say they try to book the best hotels in town, but i think from here on it will go down hill.

Some first day photos.

Turtle rock

We have seen lots of Eagles

First day riding

The weather has not been that great to us, but it’s all smiles after the first day. We have had rain and drizzle most of the day, but it held off for our visit to the giant Genghis Khan statue.

We made our way out of Ulaanbaatar - which is probably the best thing to do there - through some pretty heavy traffic but we were quickly and safely out into the rolling green hills.

After about 100km we came over the hill to the giant stainless steel statue, looking out across the valley.

(Video on next post)

The compass team put on a great lunch spread for us while we took the obligatory climb out to the horse head.

(Video on next post)

We then rode back a bit and around into the next valley to a stunning national park with rocky hills and green valleys..

We are now at a great hotel and winding down.

We just need some better weather for the big loop ride through the park tomorrow.

The sights of Ulaanbaatar

Unfortunately our free day in Ulaanbaatar was very grey and wet. There are really only 3 things to see and do here; visit the main square, visit a monastery, and the museum. So it was a pretty quiet day.

We had our welcome meeting this afternoon and dinner with the full crew. When we came back from dinner the bikes were all lined up ready for us tomorrow.

One more sleep and we are on our way! Our main worry is the weather.... we are told Mongolia has over 200 sunny days a year, but it looks like we might have a few wet days to start with. Hopefully it rained out today and we will be good.

I’m ready!!!

Landed in Mongolia

After a very long 5 hour+ layover in Hong Kong, and a bumpy flight across China, we have landed safely in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. And our bags made it too!

We met the Compass reps at the airport along with a few other riders on our tour who were on our bus.

The weather is a bit stormy, and Ulaanbaatar is not the most attractive city, but we will ‘do the sights’ tomorrow and look forward to meeting the full gang, and our bikes, tomorrow afternoon.

Well, we have overcome our first challenge, before we even get through check in. “Somebody” who booked the tickets and tried to check in online checked the baggage allowance - but that was only for the first leg. We found out Mongolia airlines, taking us from Hong Kong to Ulaanbaatar tomorrow, only have a single bag allowance! With some help from the Cathay checking attendant we had to get our 2 bags wrapped together (at $25 for a bit of stretch wrap) and checked in as one bag. We just scraped in ‘close’ to the maximum weight and got through...

I am not sure how the trip home will go checking-in in Mongolia. We might be wearing our riding gear on the plane!

It's time for a new adventure... this time 14 days motor bike touring across Mongolia.

After our fantastic 2013 trip to South America, we had no hesitation in booking with the Compass Expeditions team for their 2019 Mongolia Magic trip. This is the video of last years tour:

We are flying out on Saturday 20th July via Hong Kong to Ulaanbaatar and join the bikes on Tuesday the 23rd.

I suspect internet access will be limited at times but I am armed with both a camera and my new DJI Mavic Air drone so I hope I can get some good pictures and video of our adventure.

Time to pack the bags!